Buying the right (mountain) bike for you.

Mountain bikes revolutionized the cycling industry two decades ago when the first mass produced models were introduced. Though chunkier and less dignified than their road-bred cousins, their popularity came due to their versatility and forgiving handling characteristics. If you're reading this guide, you've decided that you'd like a dose of the two wheeled freedom these fat-tired fun machines can provide. This guide will not only provide suggestions regarding the fit and function of the bike you're looking for, but also some lesser-know okay tricks to finding that "ultimate deal."

Purpose: The first question to ask yourself is, "What kind of riding am I planning on doing?" 'Round the town? Paved/groomed trails? Singletrack? Cross Country Racing? Freeride? Downhill Racing? You have to know yourself and your cycling goal to answer this one. Here are three generalized categories for mountain bike "breeds" to give you a little direction.

CRUISERS: If you're just planning on a low key spin 'round the 'hood and there's a slim chance that your tires will ever see dirt or gravel, then a cross, or dual purpose bike would probably suit you well. These bikes have low standover heights do they're easy to get on and off of, and a more upright riding position. Some of these will have suspension forks, and the nice ones may even have a little suspension seatpost. A little extra cush for your tush. Look for smooth tires as opposed to knobby ones on this kind of ride. Great for scanning beautiful vistas, or cruising the local market. Not so great for bombing through the trees.

CRANKERS: If you're considering changing your name to Speedy McFastwich and love ripping over hill and dale (and passing Phil and Dale in the process,) then there's a good chance that a hardtail (no rear suspension) or short travel (a tad of rear suspension) ride would be great for you. These bikes are light and nimble and eat up twisty singletrack faster than Rosie O' goes through a case of Twinkies. Knobby tires. 3-4 inches of suspension travel. These are the thoroughbreds of the mountain bike world. Look for a broad range of pricetags on these. The lighter the bits and pieces and fancier the frame materials the higher that magical "Buy It Now" number is going to be.

THUMPERS: If your idea of fun is spending more time off the ground than on it, then the longer travel full suspension bikes are for you. Either that, or you should maybe take up sky diving. Of course, you can probably find stuff for that on okay too, but that's another Guide altogether. Big boingers are good for one thing; going down...FAST. Sound like fun to you? With gross weights over 40lbs., you do not want to try and get these monsters uphill under your own power. If you buy one of these, get ready for the overwhelmingly popular (and equally idiotic) question, "Hey, where's the motor on that thing?" followed by creepy banjo music and pig noises.

Pricepoint: The second question is, "How much can I afford to spend on my new steed?" Take the first number that pops into your head, and then see if you can't add another $100 or $200 to it. You get what you pay for, and your cycling experience could be ecstasy or agony depending on the dependability of your equipment.

Fit: Third question; "How is a bike sized, and how do I know if it's right for me?" When you see a measurement in a bike's size description (i.e. 15", 18", 21") it is referring to the distance between the Bottom Bracket (the axis you pedal your cranks around) and the Top Tube (the tube directly between your knees, as you're sitting on the bike.) As you pedal your bike you want to have your leg ALMOST extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke. If you're not, you're not getting the full use of those long leg muscles. In general, if you're under 5'5", a 16" or smaller bike would be best for you.5'9"-6', probably around an 18" frame. If you're inbetween those measurements, or above, do a little math based on these guestimates, and get an idea of what you'd like. The best bet would be to get fitted at a bike shop, although, they probably won't want to know that you're going to try to snag a bike online, instead of at their shop... A moral quandary there.

Brand: How do I know if it's a decent bike, or a piece of junk? DO YOUR RESEARCH! Look up the manufacturer's website online. If you can't find it, or the gepany also makes sewing machines, DO NOT BID ON THAT BIKE. We're all trying to get a good deal here, but you still need to try and get what you pay for. Try to find information and/or reviews on the bike you're looking to buy. Some simple digging on the big "G" can boost your knowledge on an auction. And knowing is half the battle.

Used vs.New: Chances are that a new steed (most likely from a shop) is going to cost you more than one that's been used. Then again, it'll probably still have that "new tire" smell. MMMMMM. TIRES... Here is where some creative questioning is immensely helpful. Ask the seller why they're getting rid of it. Ask them if they jumped it a lot. Ask them the type of riding they did on the bike, or what their favorite trail is. If they answer something like, "Slaughterhouse, dude." or "Cheap Vasectomy, fer sher." you might have some red flags go up. Ask them to send more pics, if the ones on their auction aren't clear enough. Particularly key wear/damage areas, like the headtube welds, and bottom bracket welds. Also pics of the rear derailleur area. If it's all scarred up back there, or twisted funny, MORE RED FLAGS! On that note, ask them how it's shifting, and how old the drivetrain (chain, sprockets, rear cogs) is. What does or doesn't need replacing. These parts wear out after a while, depending on the mileage and abuse they've seen. Buyer beware! If your gears are hunking and chunking when you get your ride rolling, you've got to replace that stuff. Take these kinds of replacement costs into consideration when you're bidding. If you're not mechanically savvy, find a friend, or friend of a friend who has bike building experience. A bike that's not put together just right, is a bummer to ride. With a little bribery, they'll get your "new" ride rolling for you. Again, avoid taking your big box o' parts to the bike shop. Moral quandaries, you know.

Search Tricks: Let's face it, we're not all the best shpellurs in the world. Take that into consideration when you've got a particular brand or item that you're looking for. Try misspelling your favorite search a couple different ways. You might find something that could slip under the radar of other bidders and you could end up snagging it for considerably less dough. Also, don't give in to that itchy trigger finger. Hold off on an auction that's looking for more than it's worth. Let some other sucker have it. If the item doesn't sell, there's a decent chance that the seller will gee to his/her senses and list it for a little less next time. Look for a bike or parts in the fall and winter. This is off-season for most people, so there's a better chance of getting a good deal on whatever it is you're looking for. Lastly, have fun. If you lose an auction, there's a good chance that an even better deal is geing.